Friday, 4 October 2013

All About Hair Rollers

Rollers are perhaps the best way to create shape and movement in the majority of longer hairstyles. 
For a long time, salons would deride the use of rollers, believing that blow-drying and heat curling were far better, however this generally isn't true. Today, women are returning to using rollers and understanding the benefits. So in this piece I will explain some Roller Factors:-

1. The best way to achieve good effects from rollers is to wet set with them. This means you wash the hair, towel dry and roll. As the hair dries the temporary bonds (within it) will re-affix and create a durable style.

2. With heated rollers, the effects are also good - but any type of heat setting will not alter as many temporary bonds as you would see from wet to dry. If you are using heated rollers, you must make sure the rollers are 100% cool before you remove them, otherwise the curl will be pulled out by the weight of the hair (as it drops) whilst the heat is still setting the curl in place.

3. Good shape and movement (and ultimately curls) are only ever truly created from rollers by strong tension when winding.  Rollers must always be wound in smooth sections and pulled tight during the rolling. If you don't work with sufficient tension the hair will drop as the temporary bonds will not be pulled into the new shape. 

5. Many people use Velcro rollers as a 'roller set' item, but generally many velcro rollers are just designed to give finished movement or volume after blow-drying. For best effects using Jet Set and traditional (plastic)  rollers will give you stronger tension when winding and a firmer finished curl effect.

6. Nobody realises this, but silicones and conditioning agents are the enemy for any curl or style setting. Silicones are designed to pull moisture into the hair, when this moisture hits set hair it will cause created effects to start to drop out. Therefore, it's always preferable to set on pre-clarified hair and avoid using a conditioner and instead use setting lotions and hairsprays which shield the outside of the hair and work with the temporary bonds on the inside.

7. Many types of (naturally straight) Caucasian hair are not great at holding curl, particularly if the hair is very silky by nature. If you are really wedded to big hair, movement and volume and have this particular hair type you need to consider having a perm foundation. When hair is permed the (permanent) internal bonds in the hair will be altered.  A curly perm foundation in a silky (hard to curl) hair type will enable wet set hair to hold it's shape between washes (even if you go a week). Remember, perms were actually created to allow women set - not for the wash and wear perm looks they are now associated to.

8. A hood dryer is the best item any Roller Setter needs to consider investing in. You can pick up a hood dryer in Argos for around £60. However, the benefit to this item is an ability to wet set the hair, sit under the dryer and quickly dry the hair. The increased air (on the hair) also gives far more volume and set longevity. 

9. If you have compromised your hair with heat styling and chemicals and it's feeling dry or damaged, switching your style regime to wet setting is also another good option. If you can wet set maybe twice a week and leave the hair to dry naturally (with the rollers in), you will not only help the condition improve but also retain the style effect you want. This method is particularly good for those with whole head bleached hair - which has a tendency to snap and break when exposed to heated tools and blow-drying. 

10. If you like to wear big hair up styles, always set the hair beforehand. Remove the rollers and vigorously brush the hair out.  Once hair has been wet set you will find it moulds as you attempt to place it up - instead of collapsing or breaking free from the hair pins.

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