Saturday, 29 June 2013

Just Not So Dark!! - Partial Removal with Decolour

Partial Removal with Decolour 

When you have found yourself with an unwanted darker colour, it’s not always necessary to apply Decolour to the whole head and remove everything.   Actually, conducting a partial removal can be a very effective way to reduce down the unwanted depth and create a more naturalist shade whilst retaining some of that previously unwanted darker colour.

Quite often, multiple colour applications will lead to build up whereby the colour molecule has been overlaid many times on the same areas of hair.  What begins occurring is the hair starts to look heavy, flat and obviously 'too' dark.   

Alternatively, you might decide to go a darker shade but once you have developed your selected colourant the shade appears (on your head) much heavier than it did on the box photo.  You still want to be darker – just not so dark.

Decolour Remover was created in a thick crème consistency to prevent it from running throughout the hair when applied, this enables a precision to application – meaning you can apply and remove specific (or localised) areas only. 

You also have to consider that natural hair colours (even the darkest shades) consist of a mixture of varying depths, not every hair on our head is the same shade.  However, when you artificially colour darker you are transforming every hair to exactly the same shade, this is why an unwanted darker colour result can appear so heavy and artificial.  Conducting a partial removal can re-introduce that mixture of lighter and darker depths and create an effective hair colour result quickly and easily.

What is Partial Colour Removal?

With the partial method you mix and apply Decolour Remover using a tint bowl and brush (or even toothbrush) to strips of hair throughout the head.  This application technique is known as  ‘Balayage’.  You do not need to worry about applying the remover throughout the hair; you basically paint it onto sections of the dry hair in a highlighting method and develop for 1 hour.   When you rinse, dry and style the hair – you will notice the original (darker) colour remains but you now have lighter shards running throughout which produces a softer more natural effect.

How to conduct a Partial Colour Removal with Decolour

You will need:-

·         A tint bowl and brush (you can also use a regular small plastic bowl and inexpensive own brand tooth brush)
·         Decolour Remover
·         A Tangle Comb

      Remember to Clarify First!

      You must always clarify the hair before any type of technical procedure.  Shampoos, conditioners and styling products can leave a residue on the cuticle layer which produces a barrier which prevents colourant products from entering.  Wash the hair three times in a clarifying or baby shampoo before proceeding with this method.

And (seems weird) but dry and style your hair!

2.      Once you have fully clarified, I want you to comb the hair and then proceed to blow-drying and styling it exactly as you would generally.  You will find this harder than usual because you cannot use conditioner or styling products.  You must simply blow-dry the hair using water only.  If you (typically) iron your hair smooth, you can do this – but you must NOT use product.  The idea with this step is to create a smooth, styled dry foundation to the hair which will enable you to apply the Remover into areas that will be fully visible in your everyday hair look.  If you have (and wear) your hair naturally curly, all you need to do is leave it to air dry – before proceeding to the partial removal. 

3.       With your hair clarified, dry and fully styled and sitting in its regular partings and shape - you can now mix up the Decolour Remover in your plastic bowl.  Pour 50% or bottle 1 and 50% of bottle 2 into the bowl.  You can reseal each bottle and return to the box, in case you desire further removal later on.  Fully intermix the formula in the bowl using either your tint brush or purchased toothbrush.

4.       Now take your tangle comb and weave out thin sections of hair, starting at the under areas (sides and back).  Dip your tint or tooth brush into the Decolour Remover and gently cover the section you have pulled out.  You will not need a great deal of product – just enough to cover and work into the section.

5.       Once you have applied the Remover to random underside sections, you can begin covering thin sections at the top of the head.  When you get to the hairline and parting sections remember these areas will be visible, so weave out much thinner sections to cover.   Take an artistic approach to the method at the partings and around the hairline and remember this colour will be framing your face with lighter and darker shards, so you can vary the width of the sections you weave.   As a general rule, stay to super fine sections around the face and hairline. 

6.       Remember, you do not want to saturate your hair in Decolour Remover; you just want to see a clear mix of coated shards throughout the dry styled hair.   Once you have applied the Remover as outlined above leave it to develop for 1 hour.  With this type of development,  I do not want you to cover the hair in cling film as it will ‘squash’ the remover into other areas.  Simple leave to develop uncovered.

7.       After you have developed for 1 hour, proceed to rinsing and Concluding the Decolour treatment as instructed in the pack. 

8.       Once complete, you can now dry and style your hair.  In most cases you will find the previously dark heavy hair has reduced to a very natural shade that features a mixture of lighter and darker tones.   However, if you still want to reduce the colour further, you can repeat the exercise again.  A second partial removal application is incredibly easy, because here you actually see the unwanted darker sections and can focus just here.

If you have any questions on this method, simply ask me on my Facebook page and do share photos as I'd like to see your results!!  Scott:)  

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