Root Glow

 What is Root Glow?

This particular issue is one which shows up in many guises and often perplexes people – especially with brunette shades.  After the hair has been coloured (either immediately or several days later) the roots begin to glow a bright coppery or red colour – especially in sunlight.  Many people cannot understand why this is happening and this isn’t an issue that is confined to home colouring, in fact it happens with salon colours too.  So the question is why does ‘Root Glow’ happen?

In my years involved with home colour removal, without a doubt the highest examples I see of previous ‘Root Glow’ come from those who have removed an artificial colour and exposed the base which lay underneath.  From photographs, I can see the coppery stripes running down the hair from previous colour applications to the roots – where these areas have lightened more so (and kicked up red) than the rest of the hair. 

 

Why does Root Glow happen?

Root Glow happens when hydrogen peroxide enters the hair intermixed with a colourant, on the mid-lengths and ends the peroxide molecule attaches to the colour molecule and a shade is merely deposited.  However, the hair directly next to the scalp (eg the roots) is exposed to a higher temperature during the process due to the heat being released from the head.  This additional scalp heat will boost the hydrogen peroxide (which is used in the colour developer) and cause the natural hair (at the roots) to begin lightening and ‘kicking up’ natural red tone.  On occasions even 3% (10 volume) peroxide (which is very low) can cause some degree of Root Glow, however the standard strength used in colourants is 6% (20 volume) and when this strength is applied to the roots (combined with the scalp heat) the regrowth hair will begin to lighten by around three levels.

 

Why do I sometimes see Root Glow more so several days after I applied my colour treatment ? 

This is due to a something known as 'creeping oxidation'.  Peroxide by it's very creation, is basically oxygen infused into water.  The process of oxidation (found in hair colouring and lightening) happens because a peroxide will want to revert back to water and the oxygen molecule will seperate from the water molecule.  In this process, oxygen molecules begin attaching to other molecules in the hair (such as artificial colour molecules deposited).  However, when peroxide is quite a potent strength (20 volume and beyond) it will seek to attach to natural pigment molecules, which causes them to expand and become transparent.  This is how 'hair lightening' occurs.

Because peroxide is a volatile formulation, after a colour process (be it colouring, lightening etc) an anti-oxidation treatment needs to be applied to the hair.  In fact, these ingredients would be found in the conditioning sachets of the hair colourant products you purchase.  However, in some instances (and particularly at the roots which tend to receive less of these conditioning treatments when applied) a process called 'Creeping Oxidation' occurs.  Basically, peroxide can stay active within the hair for 48 to 72 hours after application (unless anti oxidized).  So if you did not correctly remove and condition that hair at the roots (following your colour), the hair will very slowly continue to lighten, hence why two days after your colour (or often the next morning) you can suddenly see Root Glow.

 

Why is Root Glow more a problem for Brunettes than Blondes?

In fairer or grey natural bases, Root Glow doesn't tend to happen because there is less depth and red pigment within such hair types, therefore when the root areas lighten – they do so quite cleanly and at the same time accept the (new) artificial colour being added – so the result is a shade as expected which is consistent and evenly deposited.

However, on brunette hair - when the peroxide is accelerated by the scalp heat (when applied as an intermixed colour) the lightening can cause an issue.  Hair goes through several stages of lightening from red, to orange to yellow (in cases where people are trying to go blonde).  However, if a peroxide is applied to the regrowth of brunette hair and this peroxide is boosted by scalp heat and able to lighten by three levels, what occurs is the hair lifts into the red level.  Hair lifted to the red level will not hide well under an artificial hair colourant molecule and most notably will appear to ‘glow’ through that colour molecule – especially when daylight hits it.    This glowing can become significantly noticeable if a) a very high peroxide strength was used with the colourant applied or b) you conducted your hair colour on a very warm or hot day (which could cause a level or two more lift than you would normally receive).  Likewise, if the creeping oxidation was allowed to occur in the days that followed and the natural hair has continued lightening due to the peroxide molecules remaining in the hair.

How to deal with Root Glow

Root Glow in brunette shades can be a tricky one to deal with because in order to cover it, you need to apply a second peroxide based colour which (in turn) could cause the hair to lighten further and kick up more red.  

If you have applied a brunette shade and found your roots have turned a warm bright reddy shade, the best tip I can give you is to purchase a product such as Clairol Root Touch up in a shade only one level darker than the mid-lengths and ends.  Take the white cream developer bottle, make a pen mark where the white developer (the peroxide) currently reaches and then pour 50% of the developer away.  Next take a bottle of mineral water and carefully top up the developer back to the mark level you created.  Close the lid and shake before intermixing as instructed.  By diluting the developer you are effectively reducing the strength of the peroxide down to a level whereby only the colour molecule could be deposited and sit within the hair.  After you have intermixed the colourant, apply to the roots only and leave to develop.  What you should find is the roots take on a slightly darker appearance and the Root Glow is covered.

How to stop Root Glow

As stated, Root Glow tends to appear in naturally darker bases. 

·         The first rule of applying a hair colourant to these shades it to use a tint bowl and brush and do not simply ‘pour’ the colourant throughout the head.   You should apply the colourant with a tint bowl and brush to the mid-lengths and ends first, and then mid-way through development go back to the root areas and apply here.  This will give the roots less time to develop and prevent the scalp heat boosting that development to a level whereby the root areas can begin lifting up from the peroxide applied.

·         If you are selecting brunette shades and are prone to Root Glow, avoid any shades with red or gold tone in them.  These shades will contribute further warmth to possible Root Glow and make the result (at the roots) appear more vibrant.

·         If you like standard brunette shades, purchase two colourants from the same brand and of the same base.  However, purchase a standard base shade (such as 4.0 or 5.0) for the mid lengths and ends and an ash based shade for the roots (4.1 and 5.1).  Using your tint bowl and brush initially apply your base shade (4.0 or 5.0) to your mid-lengths and ends, then midway through development mix up your ash based shade (4.1 or 5.1) with your tint bowl and brush and apply to just the roots.  This added ash tone will neutralise any warmth that may appear at the roots.  5 minutes before the end of development, wet a tangle comb and intermix both shades on the head for blending – before rinsing off.

·         If you wish to retain a brunette shade, always use an ash based colour (for standard brunettes) and apply just to the roots using a tint bowl  and brush and develop for only 15 to 20 minutes.  If you like a warmer brunette shade, use a standard base shade (such as 4.0 or 5.0) and work with the natural warmth within the hair.

·         If you are a redhead who is getting noticeable Root Glow, try applying a 6.0 or 7.0 colourant to the roots only and giving it a 15 minute development time.  This could add a degree of base back into the hair and mute down that glow without covering the tone.

Remember, Root Glow is a common occurance in hair colouring and (in my experience) is significantly increased in warm conditions when the colourant is allowed to sit to full development.  Without a doubt the most notable time it happens is when someone has ‘poured’ a colourant from the applicator throughout their hair and gone to full development.  Therefore, for new colours always remember to use a tint bowl and brush and apply colour to the roots midway through your development process and not at the beginning. 

Always condition the roots well (after removal of the colourant) as this will help prevent creeping oxidation which can occur over 48 to 72 hours and evoke Root Glow after the event.

Just Not So Dark!! - Partial Removal with Decolour

Partial Removal with Decolour 

When you have found yourself with an unwanted darker colour, it’s not always necessary to apply Decolour to the whole head and remove everything.   Actually, conducting a partial removal can be a very effective way to reduce down the unwanted depth and create a more naturalist shade whilst retaining some of that previously unwanted darker colour.

Quite often, multiple colour applications will lead to build up whereby the colour molecule has been overlaid many times on the same areas of hair.  What begins occurring is the hair starts to look heavy, flat and obviously 'too' dark.   

Alternatively, you might decide to go a darker shade but once you have developed your selected colourant the shade appears (on your head) much heavier than it did on the box photo.  You still want to be darker – just not so dark.

Decolour Remover was created in a thick crème consistency to prevent it from running throughout the hair when applied, this enables a precision to application – meaning you can apply and remove specific (or localised) areas only. 

You also have to consider that natural hair colours (even the darkest shades) consist of a mixture of varying depths, not every hair on our head is the same shade.  However, when you artificially colour darker you are transforming every hair to exactly the same shade, this is why an unwanted darker colour result can appear so heavy and artificial.  Conducting a partial removal can re-introduce that mixture of lighter and darker depths and create an effective hair colour result quickly and easily.

What is Partial Colour Removal?

With the partial method you mix and apply Decolour Remover using a tint bowl and brush (or even toothbrush) to strips of hair throughout the head.  This application technique is known as  ‘Balayage’.  You do not need to worry about applying the remover throughout the hair; you basically paint it onto sections of the dry hair in a highlighting method and develop for 1 hour.   When you rinse, dry and style the hair – you will notice the original (darker) colour remains but you now have lighter shards running throughout which produces a softer more natural effect.

How to conduct a Partial Colour Removal with Decolour

You will need:-

·         A tint bowl and brush (you can also use a regular small plastic bowl and inexpensive own brand tooth brush)

·         Decolour Remover

·         A Tangle Comb

      Remember to Clarify First!

      You must always clarify the hair before any type of technical procedure.  Shampoos, conditioners and styling products can leave a residue on the cuticle layer which produces a barrier which prevents colourant products from entering.  Wash the hair three times in a clarifying or baby shampoo before proceeding with this method.

And (seems weird) but dry and style your hair!

2.      Once you have fully clarified, I want you to comb the hair and then proceed to blow-drying and styling it exactly as you would generally.  You will find this harder than usual because you cannot use conditioner or styling products.  You must simply blow-dry the hair using water only.  If you (typically) iron your hair smooth, you can do this – but you must NOT use product.  The idea with this step is to create a smooth, styled dry foundation to the hair which will enable you to apply the Remover into areas that will be fully visible in your everyday hair look.  If you have (and wear) your hair naturally curly, all you need to do is leave it to air dry – before proceeding to the partial removal. 

3.       With your hair clarified, dry and fully styled and sitting in its regular partings and shape - you can now mix up the Decolour Remover in your plastic bowl.  Pour 50% or bottle 1 and 50% of bottle 2 into the bowl.  You can reseal each bottle and return to the box, in case you desire further removal later on.  Fully intermix the formula in the bowl using either your tint brush or purchased toothbrush.

4.       Now take your tangle comb and weave out thin sections of hair, starting at the under areas (sides and back).  Dip your tint or tooth brush into the Decolour Remover and gently cover the section you have pulled out.  You will not need a great deal of product – just enough to cover and work into the section.

5.       Once you have applied the Remover to random underside sections, you can begin covering thin sections at the top of the head.  When you get to the hairline and parting sections remember these areas will be visible, so weave out much thinner sections to cover.   Take an artistic approach to the method at the partings and around the hairline and remember this colour will be framing your face with lighter and darker shards, so you can vary the width of the sections you weave.   As a general rule, stay to super fine sections around the face and hairline. 

6.       Remember, you do not want to saturate your hair in Decolour Remover; you just want to see a clear mix of coated shards throughout the dry styled hair.   Once you have applied the Remover as outlined above leave it to develop for 1 hour.  With this type of development,  I do not want you to cover the hair in cling film as it will ‘squash’ the remover into other areas.  Simple leave to develop uncovered.

7.       After you have developed for 1 hour, proceed to rinsing and Concluding the Decolour treatment as instructed in the pack. 

8.       Once complete, you can now dry and style your hair.  In most cases you will find the previously dark heavy hair has reduced to a very natural shade that features a mixture of lighter and darker tones.   However, if you still want to reduce the colour further, you can repeat the exercise again.  A second partial removal application is incredibly easy, because here you actually see the unwanted darker sections and can focus just here.

If you have any questions on this method, simply ask me on my Facebook page and do share photos as I'd like to see your results!!  Scott:)  

Curl Power

CURL STAYING POWER

With a definite trend for curling hair and volume back in, one of the biggest issues many women face when curling is the fact that shortly after the curls are created, they begin to drop out of the hair.   Whilst many techniques and products exist for style retention, the issue of curl flop still resides with most.  Here I will try to explain why this happens and the methods which can be deployed to resolve it.

 

Understanding temporary curl 

A temporary curl is created in the hair when the internal hydrogen bonds are broken.  These bonds are broken whenever moisture comes into contact (eg when the hair becomes wet) and these same bonds will reform when the hair dries and as oxygen enters the hairs fibres.   Therefore, a curl (or any style) result can be achieved by moulding the hair around a tool during this drying phase.  Likewise, heat will also reset these temporary hydrogen bonds, hence why curls can be created from tongs, irons or heated rollers.

However, certain hair types are naturally very rich in keratin and will tend to draw moisture from the atmosphere.  A general rule is the silkier and softer the hair (naturally) is, the harder you will find it to hold a curl, whilst the courser and drier hair (naturally) is, the easier a curl or shape will retain.  This is due to the fact that if the hair readily accepts moisture and hydration from the atmosphere those temporary bonds will just revert back to their natural shape.  However, drier or courser hair types which (readily crave moisture) will not suffer this issue.  Ironically, this can be why naturally curly hair will hold a (set) curl pattern very well – because (in general) curly hair can lack moisture, hence why it becomes dry so easily. 

If you are a definite sufferer of curl flop, these below pointers should be able to help you retain your curl, volume and style:-

1.       DO NOT CONDITION

If you wish to create a curl in straight or silky hair that will typically not retain it, avoid all conditioners and even conditioning shampoos.  Many of these shampoos and conditioners contain polymers and silicones that draw moisture into the hair to enable it to retain softness, therefore hair that is treated with either a rich shampoo or conditioner will tend to suffer curl flop.  Instead, you need the hair to be a slightly drier texture.  Using a clear or simple shampoo and then following with a sea salt spray will cause the PH of the hair to rise and the cuticle to open slightly making the texture feel rougher.  This drier texture will help retain a curl.  For hair that is very stubborn to curl retention (and particularly silky), try mixing two tea spoons of salt into a mug of warm water and rinsing it through your hair for additional (temporary) dehydration.

2.       WET SETTING IS BEST  

Whilst probably 80% of people still use heat curling methods, the use of heat to create a curl in dry hair is never as long wearing as setting the hair on rollers or a curling tool from wet.   The internal hydrogen bonds will reset to their most effective level when the hair is wound from wet because at this point the hair holds additional elasticity which will stretch the hair and cause a tension that will form stronger bonds.   Whilst a good result can be achieved by allowing the hair to set overnight or (generally) air dry, by far the best method is to use a hood dryer.  A hood dryer blasts warm air across the head and causes an even, quicker and more effective long term curl result – even in the most stubborn of straight textures.

3.       AVOID SILICONES AND PRODUCTS DESIGNED FOR ‘CURLY HAIR’.

Using any silicone based serum or product is lethal for naturally straight hair wishing to retain a curl.  As stated, silicones are used in products to draw moisture into the hair, therefore if you create or finish a curl with a silicone based product it will increase the likelihood of curl flop (over time) because that moisture is being drawn into the hair which can cause the bonds to reset back to their natural pattern.  In addition, a second misconception is the use of curly hair products to create or retain a temporary curl.  These products have been designed for naturally curly hair which is typically dry in texture and needs moisture to form the natural curl.  If someone with very straight silky hair uses such products they will find (once again) the curl will begin to drop, as although their hair may be temporarily curly they do not have a naturally curly hair texture that would benefit from the product.  In general, setting lotions and hairsprays such as Elnet should be used to style straight hair that is not readily willing to hold a curl.

4.       PERM IT

The biggest misconception about perms is they are only capable of creating those scrunchy looks as seen in the 1980’s – this is untrue.   Traditionally, cold perming was created 100 years ago because women had suffered for centuries with the issue of curl retention.    Chemicals found in the traditional cold perm work by breaking the permanent disulphide bonds within the hair and changing its shape.   If the hair is left to dry naturally (once permed) it will have a curly or permed look, however the point of perms was not actually for the famous ‘wash and wear’ look, but actually to enable the hair to be set (as normal) on rollers or moulding tools.  When permed hair is curled or set, the temporary hydrogen bonds (which create the style look curls) will hold in place without dropping because those parallel disulphide bonds have been permanently changed.   Therefore, a perm foundation in very straight hair will enable you to wash and set or curl your hair but retain volume, movement and shape without fear of flopping. 

 My only word of warning on perming is that it is not compatible with bleached hair.  In bleached hair the permanent bonds have already been weakened and the hair will not withstand a second process.  However (and in my experience), bleached hair will often hold a curl better than natural hair because it has a slightly drier texture.  The only exception to this is damaged bleached hair which has lost its elasticity.  When hair is very damaged it becomes difficult to create any curl or shape in the hair as the structure has begun to deteriorate.

5.       DRY CLEAN

If you are passionate about sporting curls and movement as part of your everyday style and look, reduce the amount you wash your hair.  Spending time washing and then setting the hair to dry (especially with a perm foundation), will create effective, durable and long lasting curls.  However, if you wash your hair everyday it will just not be possible to retain this level of hair upkeep.  Instead, washing maybe twice a week and then using a dry shampoo daily will clean the hair but retain the style.  Because dry shampoos contain no moisture ingredients they will not unrest the temporary hydrogen bonds – therefore, you can clean the hair without needing to wet it.

Remember, these above pointers are designed for individuals with straight hair who suffer curl flop soon after styling.   The principles are somewhat different for those who have naturally curly or wavy hair. 

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It's Too Light!

Following on from my piece about going platinum, it would be unfair of me to tackle the opposing issue – ‘light out’.  This is an occurrence whereby someone has permanently coloured their hair blonde and discovered the result to be a garish artificial light colour they just didn’t want nor expect - unless they were going for the Draco Malfoy look! 

The most common reason ‘Light Out’ happens is seen when someone (who usually goes to the salon for highlights) decides (for whatever reason) to tackle their regrowth at home.  They select a light blonde colour, but do not realise the roots will lift up quite significantly and the darker (non- highlighted) areas will also lift to create an overall light blonde shade.  In addition, this shade is often brassy or yellow due to the levels of natural darker colour which were still present in the hair upon the application and lifting of the colour.

‘Light Out’ is actually a very easy issue to rectify quickly and requires a principle of attempting to duplicate the look of a natural blonde.  In general, natural blondes will not have one block hair colour, the base tends to be an 8.0 (light blonde) which will then lift with the sun and become a multi-tonal shade.  

Therefore, if you have found ‘Light Out’ in your hair, follow these simple principles:-

1.       CLARIFY THE HAIR

Home colourants contain conditioners in their final stage which will close the colouring session and put a seal on the hair to allow the new shade to settle.  If you want to rectify a colour result, you must immediately clarify the hair to remove this conditioner and re-open the hair.  If you do not do this, a subsequent treatment applied may sit on the hairs surface and not work effectively.

2.       CREATE YOUR BLONDE ROOTS  

This tip may seem incredible, but a natural blonde does not have even lightened hair up to the scalp.  To eradicate the ‘Light Out’ look you are going to have to create natural blonde (looking) roots.  With this technique you buy a base shade permanent colour of an 8.0 level and apply it only to the root area (not the mid-lengths and ends).  You must use a tint bowl and brush to do this and the best product I can recommend is Clairol Root Touch up Medium Blonde 8.0.  On dry hair (only), you must apply the colourant to just your pale root areas.  If your roots appear coppery pale blonde, go with a cool based 8.0 shade.  After you have applied the colourant (to just the root areas), you can pick out very fine strands of hair and colour them (downward) throughout some random sections across the head.  This will create additional depth in the block blonde colour and take away the artificial look.  

  

3.       TONE

The hair will also need to be toned (after creating your natural blonde roots as outlined in point 2).  You can use Colour Restore Iced Platinum to create an even crisp blonde (and remove yellow) or if you just have mild yellow tone wash the hair several times in a blue shampoo such as Lee Stafford Bleached Blonde.  

4.       BATISTE IT!

If you don’t have the time to deepen your regrowth and tone, an immediate quick tip for ‘Light Out’ is to reach for Batiste medium and brunette coloured shampoo.  If you lightly spray this dry shampoo into your lightened out root areas plus along and within the length of your hair, it will create a shadow effect and disguise the block blonde result and instead create a more natural blonde look.  This tip is particularly good if you intend to go to your salon and get the hair colour corrected or if you just don’t have time to rectify it yourself on the day of your home colour application.   

Above all, if you have found your hair has lightened out due to home colouring, you must act quickly and within 10 days.  If you leave it for longer than 2 weeks, you will begin to get a very dark root strap appearing and you will need to either lighten this out or go darker to disguise it.

However, if you rectify the unwanted blonde shade quite soon after you achieved it, the additional depth you subsequently apply to the hair (as outlined above) should reduce the appearance of the subsequant root strap and you can either continue using your previous method to retain blonde or simply apply a medium blonde (8.) hair colourant to the new regrowth to lift it to a shade which matches the 8.0 shade you applied to cover the 'Light Out'.

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