What is Root Glow?
This particular issue is one which shows up in many guises
and often perplexes people – especially with brunette shades. After the hair has been coloured (either
immediately or several days later) the roots begin to glow a bright coppery or
red colour – especially in sunlight.
Many people cannot understand why this is happening and this isn’t an
issue that is confined to home colouring, in fact it happens with salon colours
too. So the question is why does ‘Root
Glow’ happen?
In my years involved with home colour removal, without a
doubt the highest examples I see of previous ‘Root Glow’ come from those who
have removed an artificial colour and exposed the base which lay underneath. From photographs, I can see the coppery
stripes running down the hair from previous colour applications to the roots –
where these areas have lightened more so (and kicked up red) than the rest of the hair.
Why does Root Glow happen?
Root Glow happens when hydrogen peroxide enters the hair
intermixed with a colourant, on the mid-lengths and ends the peroxide molecule
attaches to the colour molecule and a shade is merely deposited. However, the hair directly next to the scalp
(eg the roots) is exposed to a higher temperature during the process due to the
heat being released from the head. This
additional scalp heat will boost the hydrogen peroxide (which is used in the
colour developer) and cause the natural hair (at the roots) to begin lightening
and ‘kicking up’ natural red tone. On occasions
even 3% (10 volume) peroxide (which is very low) can cause some degree of Root
Glow, however the standard strength used in colourants is 6% (20 volume) and
when this strength is applied to the roots (combined with the scalp heat) the
regrowth hair will begin to lighten by around three levels.
Why do I sometimes see Root Glow more so several days after I applied my colour treatment ?
This is due to a something known as 'creeping oxidation'. Peroxide by it's very creation, is basically oxygen infused into water. The process of oxidation (found in hair colouring and lightening) happens because a peroxide will want to revert back to water and the oxygen molecule will seperate from the water molecule. In this process, oxygen molecules begin attaching to other molecules in the hair (such as artificial colour molecules deposited). However, when peroxide is quite a potent strength (20 volume and beyond) it will seek to attach to natural pigment molecules, which causes them to expand and become transparent. This is how 'hair lightening' occurs.
Because peroxide is a volatile formulation, after a colour process (be it colouring, lightening etc) an anti-oxidation treatment needs to be applied to the hair. In fact, these ingredients would be found in the conditioning sachets of the hair colourant products you purchase. However, in some instances (and particularly at the roots which tend to receive less of these conditioning treatments when applied) a process called 'Creeping Oxidation' occurs. Basically, peroxide can stay active within the hair for 48 to 72 hours after application (unless anti oxidized). So if you did not correctly remove and condition that hair at the roots (following your colour), the hair will very slowly continue to lighten, hence why two days after your colour (or often the next morning) you can suddenly see Root Glow.
Why is Root Glow more a problem for Brunettes than Blondes?
In fairer or grey natural bases, Root Glow doesn't tend to happen because there is less depth and red pigment within such hair types,
therefore when the root areas lighten – they do so quite cleanly and at the
same time accept the (new) artificial colour being added – so the result is a
shade as expected which is consistent and evenly deposited.
However, on brunette hair - when the peroxide is accelerated
by the scalp heat (when applied as an intermixed colour) the lightening can
cause an issue. Hair goes through
several stages of lightening from red, to orange to yellow (in cases where
people are trying to go blonde).
However, if a peroxide is applied to the regrowth of brunette hair and
this peroxide is boosted by scalp heat and able to lighten by three levels, what
occurs is the hair lifts into
the red level. Hair lifted to the red
level will not hide well under an artificial hair colourant molecule and most
notably will appear to ‘glow’ through that colour molecule – especially when
daylight hits it. This glowing can
become significantly noticeable if a) a very high peroxide strength was used
with the colourant applied or b) you conducted your hair colour on a very warm
or hot day (which could cause a level or two more lift than you would normally
receive). Likewise, if the creeping oxidation was allowed to occur in the days that followed and the natural hair has continued lightening due to the peroxide molecules remaining in the hair.
How to deal with Root Glow
Root Glow in brunette shades can be a tricky one to deal
with because in order to cover it, you need to apply a second peroxide based
colour which (in turn) could cause the hair to lighten further and kick up more
red.
If you have applied a brunette
shade and found your roots have turned a warm bright reddy shade, the best tip
I can give you is to purchase a product such as Clairol Root Touch up in a
shade only one level darker than the mid-lengths and ends. Take the white cream developer bottle, make a
pen mark where the white developer (the peroxide) currently reaches and then
pour 50% of the developer away. Next
take a bottle of mineral water and carefully top up the developer back to the
mark level you created. Close the lid
and shake before intermixing as instructed.
By diluting the developer you are effectively reducing the strength of
the peroxide down to a level whereby only the colour molecule could be
deposited and sit within the hair. After
you have intermixed the colourant, apply to the roots only and leave to
develop. What you should find is the
roots take on a slightly darker appearance and the Root Glow is covered.
How to stop Root Glow
As stated, Root Glow tends to appear in naturally darker
bases.
·
The first rule of applying a hair colourant to
these shades it to use a tint bowl and brush and do not simply ‘pour’ the
colourant throughout the head. You
should apply the colourant with a tint bowl and brush to the mid-lengths and
ends first, and then mid-way through development go back to the root areas and
apply here. This will give the roots
less time to develop and prevent the scalp heat boosting that development to a
level whereby the root areas can begin lifting up from the peroxide applied.
·
If you are selecting brunette shades and are
prone to Root Glow, avoid any shades with red or gold tone in them. These shades will contribute further warmth
to possible Root Glow and make the result (at the roots) appear more vibrant.
·
If you like standard brunette shades, purchase
two colourants from the same brand and of the same base. However, purchase a standard base shade (such
as 4.0 or 5.0) for the mid lengths and ends and an ash based shade for the
roots (4.1 and 5.1). Using your tint
bowl and brush initially apply your base shade (4.0 or 5.0) to your mid-lengths
and ends, then midway through development mix up your ash based shade (4.1 or
5.1) with your tint bowl and brush and apply to just the roots. This added ash tone will neutralise any
warmth that may appear at the roots. 5
minutes before the end of development, wet a tangle comb and intermix both
shades on the head for blending – before rinsing off.
·
If you wish to retain a brunette shade, always
use an ash based colour (for standard brunettes) and apply just to the roots
using a tint bowl and brush and develop
for only 15 to 20 minutes. If you like a
warmer brunette shade, use a standard base shade (such as 4.0 or 5.0) and work with the natural warmth within the hair.
·
If you are a redhead who is getting noticeable
Root Glow, try applying a 6.0 or 7.0 colourant to the roots only and giving it
a 15 minute development time. This could
add a degree of base back into the hair and mute down that glow without
covering the tone.
Remember, Root Glow is a common occurance in hair colouring
and (in my experience) is significantly increased in warm conditions when the
colourant is allowed to sit to full development. Without a doubt the most notable time it
happens is when someone has ‘poured’ a colourant from the applicator throughout
their hair and gone to full development.
Therefore, for new colours always remember to use a tint bowl and brush
and apply colour to the roots midway through your development process and not
at the beginning.
Always condition the roots well (after removal of the colourant) as this will help prevent creeping oxidation which can occur over 48 to 72 hours and evoke Root Glow after the event.
